Athens, Athina or Αθήνα

#thezirkus_athens

Europe's capital cities are always on my bucket list and I've crossed many of them off. What I've come to learn is that even though they all have their own distinctive identities, the similarities are uncanny. However, Athens felt more like a Middle Eastern city to me with a fusion of Eurocentric spaces. It looks more Middle Eastern than Istanbul, just exchange the orthodox churches with the ottoman mosques. Unfavourable opinion, I know! Besides the old town, the part of Athens we visited wasn’t in great shape, but nevertheless had its own charms. We stayed walking distance from Acropolis and could see it from our rooftop room/terrace.

I am posting this in the middle of a pandemic and perfectly aware of travel restrictions & bans...but I hope that doesn't everyone from having a travel bucket list? I surely hope we can travel freely once this whole thing is over.

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have noticed I share my travel locations on there with the exact location tags. If you wish to know exact locations, then I recommend you to check the hashtag I've created for each city I travel to. In this instant it would be #thezirkus_athens

Now to the main sight, bare in mind we’ve only stayed in Athens for three nights, made the most of it and didn’t venture beyond the main touristic sights. We did our typical checklist but ventured around without a plan. We have not taken any public transportation (besides the train to and from the airport) and the electric scooters; which come by very handy! We did most of it walking, as we both enjoy wandering around foreign cities! If you’re only there to see the main sights, then walking suffices.

(Wearing Dior scarf, Celine sunglasses, Zara dress & bag)

I've always been fascinated by the Greek and their history, though I have to admit, my knowledge is very much limited and on the surface. I admire the Ancient Greek philosophers, their influential work into modern societies and of course I had to see some of the ruins for myself. Considering how old the Acropolis and it's surrounding area are (over 2460 years!), it's astonishing to witness history in present days.

Ideally I should be able to give some insider of what it is like to travel as a Muslimah, but in reality I travel with my friends, my partner or siblings, even when I travelled solo, I would have friends to hang out with at the given destinations. To be honest, I don't really notice other people's behaviour towards me when I travel, because at the end of the day I am a tourist at the given location and it's never reflective of the experiences Muslims face residing in those cities. In Athens for instance, I did not notice any out of the ordinary behaviour towards me or the headscarf, also most people there look Middle Eastern haha!

If you are travelling with someone, it is pretty safe and people are generally welcoming and friendly!

Most sights have guides and information, also English seems to be widely spoken. In regards of navigating the city, it is pretty straightforward and easy to be honest. We visited Athens in May and it was warm, perfect temperature actually!

Our host was friendly and recommend us to stay away from the tourist trap restaurants, as they dilute the flavours of Greek food in favour of a “universal appeal”. In other words, a little more bland and a little more overpriced. That’s no different to any other touristic destination. Our Airbnb host recommended “The Tradition” that served delicious local dishes. We got feta salad, chicken skews and tatziki...the flavours were unexpectedly good and we honestly didn’t not anticipate a block of feta cheese on top of the salad. Supposedly that’s how it’s served and you break it into pieces & mix it with the rest of the salad. The chilly peppers that accompanied the chicken skews were SPICY! Crazy hot! I’m not a food critic, but I genuinely have a very healthy relationship with food and love food. My taste buds aren’t that of a connoisseur but they’re definitely advanced. How do I even write this without sounding even a little bit arrogant? Haha doubt that’s possible. So anyhow, I highly recommend this place. It’s not far from the main sights and it’s in close proximity to local bars.

Speaking of bars, we just hopped to the bar next door on our first night. Which looks like it may be a cafe during the day. Plenty of decorative plants and definitely an instagramable place (perhaps they had that in mind). If you’re interested in having a mocktail, it’s a nice place with a good vibe but you won’t miss out if you don’t go.

I would definitely want to visit some of the Greek Islands next time, but would I visit Athens again? Not really, I've seen enough of the city and enjoyed what it had to offer. I love Greek food, certainly I would be able to eat that on the Islands for my next trip? And can I just say, I had two missed opportunities to visit Samos Island...I literally stayed in Kusadasi (2hrs away from Samos by ferry) twice for a long period of time! First time I was lazy...second time was in August 2020, no ferries due to the pandemic...

(Wearing Vintage scarf, Celine sunglasses, Arket t-shirt, Zara jeans, Roland Mouret bag, Louis Vuitton sandals)

(Photography by Zinah & Cesar)

With 500 Posts, this is my first one ever including the word's 'Modest Fashion' in the title. That's because I have not immediately embraced the term nor fully associated myself with it at first. I literally just turned 21 when I started blogging in July 2010. The term modest fashion, Muslim bloggers or anything relating to Muslim women & fashion in the West was not widely circulated, everyone started around the times of 2008-10 and it was a fairly new field for most of us.

The first two I heard off and inspired me to get started (besides this film) were Jana Kossaibati from Hijabstyle.co.uk and Hana Tajima from Stylecovered.com. I loved Jana's blog for the writing and style guide, and loved Hana's blog for the creativity and style visuals. With further exploration, I discovered more and more blogs, including international blog HijabScarf.com by Hanna Faridl and Fifi Alvianto from Jakarta! I loved the community we have managed to form, doing small events, coming together, meeting one another and really having this democratic way of celebrating what it’s like to be a Muslim woman with keen fashion interests. We were navigating our ways and learning as we go. Most of us had fun with it, others had their plans set out and some did it as they’re full time work. All supportive of each other. Some did it as a hobby, whilst pursuing their career in other fields such as medicine, law, education, engineering, politics and other creative fields.

It was an exploratory stage for many. We went from blogging, to designing/making clothes to joining every new social media platform that was coming out. Slowly, there's been a shift...With large following came the illusion of ‘celebrity status’, it became all about ‘who’s sitting front row’ in lousy university Islamic society held fashion shows, who’s pictures were being taken and who was being recognised. All that within our own community, it felt like a serious circus, with plenty of clowns but missing acrobats. The initial democratic space created, was to avoid THIS exact issue. The same issues the fashion industry faces on daily bases and yet, instead of cultivating a space where everyone felt equal and supported, the Muslim modest fashion community turned into the cheap replica of the fashion industry. Emphasis on the word cheap. If I was about to be pushed into a competitive environment, I did rather do so where the real deal was happening, work in the fashion industry. Going from the devil wears nada to the devil wears Prada.

Besides showcasing my love for style, exploring my creativity, I mainly wanted to celebrate Muslim women and amplify their work, whilst I was exploring ways to do that. I started with the blog, ventured into making modest clothes (short lived venture, as I HATE making clothes, despite spending 5 years doing fashion design in school & college) then into making luxurious silk scarves, and then into attempting to do a magazine to finally just shut it all down and pursue a path outside of this modest fashion setting. I no longer could deal with and accept condescending statements such as ‘you don’t know who I am?’ or ‘you’ve never watched my Youtube videos?’ or ‘I am so and so and have so and so followers’. I simply no longer cared, because as an individual I was never into celebrity culture, so I could definitely not comprehend the celebrity wannabe culture either. Or even public figures. There's a difference between admiring others for the work they do or resonate with the stories they tell, but to idolise individuals for being known and existing (note, around the same time as the rise of reality TV stars)? Just not for me.

I would not get starstruck assisting Naomi Campbell with her shopping or having coffee next to Lara Stone, why would I be expected to get starstruck meeting influencers? This toxic culture started around the same time the Western media started picking up on the modest fashion bloggers and somehow the competitiveness gotten a little bit more intense. Of course, not everyone was like that and there were many wonderful Muslim women who did their work without the spiel. But also, understandably, most were still young and learning how to cope with being finally visible, trying to comprehend what was going on and navigating the social media age, as the first guineapigs. Naturally, everyone was experimenting with everything, as the term social media influencer did not exist yet, and many of us were not acute to taking on serious business ventures (as fashion brands, publications, media channels or design studios).

However, this is not to give those with attitudes an excuse, it is more so to give perspectives of what was happening during that time (and probably happening now too, but I have tuned out). Naturally, when minorities are starved for space for so long, some go on a power trip once given space. It all seemed like seeking approval and validation from white people. Some started claiming to be the first hijabi to be on here, to be on that, to do this and to do that. These claims often erase the work of others in the community and such language is taking away from the same underrepresented communities. Just because of the digital age, things are far more visible, but that does not mean there weren’t Muslim women before us who have been doing the same work. Additionally, such claims allow white people to present us as stereotype breakers, because both they and we don’t know any better. We’re meant to be multipliers and not reduce the hard work of others just because it is not known to us at a given time. Anyhow, these poisonousness thoughts seemed to have been magnified during the ‘development’ of Muslim modest fashion.

I've always thought it’s better to see one’s work having a ripple effect and embolden others with their own work. It’s never straightforward or easy to be one of the few to open certain doors of opportunities, but do not close it behind you once you are in. Under what condition is that considered plausible or admirable? Isn’t the intention of breaking barriers to let everyone else in as well, instead of burning the bridge behind you after you’ve crossed it?

As I've mentioned before, in 2014, I shut it all down and pursued a career in luxury fashion within the business sector, behind the scene of all the glamour. I’ve learned a lot and worked for brands I really admired and pursued a master’s in strategic fashion marketing. All this whilst being completely absent from social media and modest fashion scene. Yes, I deleted my first Instagram account and Facebook page, deleted my twitter & snapchat. I created a private account on Instagram to stay in touch with friends and family, but also because I enjoy photography & creative expression. I even privatised this website/blog (no one could view it for 3 years) and I went off the grid. Not merely for the above reasons, but because of my own insecurities, uncertainty and also I was not in the mindset to be warped into a culture I particularly did not enjoy.

The pictures are a depiction of my presence in the modest fashion scene, present but concealed. These images were taken by Ty Faruki! Talented photographer!

I'll share my personal journey in the second part soon!

Love and Peace

The picture above was taken in Hong Kong, across the main Island from Avenue of Stars (Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon). At the moment, Tsim Sha Tsui/ Hong Kong would be my new home, after living in London/UK for almost 16 years and over 8 years in Zurich/Switzerland. I have been very fortunate to call such eccentric and large cities my homes and have a culturally colourful upbringing.

Born in Mogadishu/Somalia (can't recall a single memory as we've left when I was 2 years old) and spending good 5 years in Al Hudaydah/Yemen, I have had a fusion of Arab & European upbringing. Now living in Hong Kong, I am excited to pick up the exciting things of the Asian culture.

Right now, however, I am in Istanbul/Turkey for an indefinite time and making the most at one of my favourite cities I have had the privilege to live/visit thus far.

Below are the cities and countries I have had the privilege to visit (and live). The list will be updated as I continue travelling. Please note that I have not posted about my travels on here since my visit to Paris in 2013...accumulated travel diary for 60 cities, so stay tuned!

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Click on a destination to find out more...

EUROPE

London / UK - Dublin / Ireland - Amsterdam / Netherlands

Rotterdam / Netherlands - Roosendaal / Netherlands - Callantsoog / Netherlands

Paris / France - Lyon / France - Saint Parey / France

Antwerp / Belgium - Brussels / Belgium - Luxembourg City / Luxembourg

Zurich / Switzerland - Vienna / Austria - Berlin / Germany

Copenhagen / Denmark - Stockholm / Sweden - Oslo / Norway

Helsinki / Finland - Krakow / Poland - Bratislava / Slovakia

Prague / Czech Republic - Budapest / Hungary - Athens / Greece

Istanbul / Turkey - Izmir / Turkey - Kusadasi / Turkey

Milan / Italy - Rome / Italy - Valetta / Malta

Comino Island / Malta - Gozo Island / Malta - Seville / Spain

Madrid / Spain - Lisbon / Portugal - Cascais / Portugal

Vatican City / Vatican - Zagreb / Croatia - Venice / Italy

Trieste / Italy - Bled / Slovenia - Lijubliana / Slovenia - Basel / Switzerland

Montreux / Switzerland - Bern / Switzerland - Lausanne / Switzerland

UNITED KINGDOM

Windsor / UK - Oxford / UK - Cambridge / UK

Bath / UK - Colchester / UK - Hitchin / UK

Poole / UK - Bournemouth / UK - Newcastle / UK

York / UK - Nottingham / UK - Edinburgh / UK

MIDDLE EAST

Mecca / Saudi Arabia - Medina / Saudi Arabia - Jeddah / Saudi Arabia

Dubai / UAE - Abu Dhabi / UAE - Doha / Qatar

Kuwait City / Kuwait - Beirut / Lebanon - Damascus / Syria

Amman / Jordan - Sanaa / Yemen - Al Hudaydah / Yemen

AFRICA

Marrakesh / Morocco - Algiers / Algeria - Oran / Algeria

Chlef / Algeria - Nairobi / Kenya - Mogadishu / Somalia

Cairo / Egypt

ASIA

Taipei / Taiwan - Jiufen / Taiwan - Beijing / China

Kowloon / Hong Kong - New Territories / Hong Kong - Hong Kong Islands / Hong Kong

Seoul / South Korea

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Below are cities and countries I have visited between 1988 and 2009...before my blogging years. I have printed pictures, but nothing digital. Moreover, I think many of the places have drastically changed in the past decades...yes decades. Writing about them wouldn't make much sense now.

Vatican City / Vatican - Zagreb / Croatia - Venice / Italy

Trieste / Italy - Bled / Slovenia - Lijubliana / Slovenia - Basel / Switzerland

Montreux / Switzerland - Bern / Switzerland - Lausanne / Switzerland

Damascus / Syria - Amman / Jordan - Cairo / Egypt

Sanaa / Yemen - Al Hudaydah / Yemen - Nairobi / Kenya

Mogadishu / Somalia

I can’t do those frivolous travel posts where the writer who also happens to be the traveller boasts about the dreamy travel destination they have visited. Everything is usually described as strawberry flavoured pink bubble gum. I’m not trying to take a hit on those in la la land, but for me travelling usually involves a wakeup call, where I either discover the bubble I live in or the horror that I blindly embrace. Either way, it’s mentally stimulating for me and invokes new outlooks in life.

In the case of visiting Saudi Arabia in 2011, the hypocrisy I have realised was upsetting. Besides the very obvious gender discrimination, there was also class and race discrimination, in addition to the unnecessary mass consumption in a city that’s meant to be spiritual and religious. I am sure some of you have read about Saudi Arabia and there are numerous articles, research and books on how ‘barbaric’ and ‘backward’ the country is whilst simultaneously being powerful, oil rich and innovative. Of course, that always dependeds on the narrator’s extractive benefits. But in any case, there are numerous entities involving the current state of Saudi and I am not here to further feed into any existing stereotypes. I’m not particularly fond of the country, to describe the least, but my opinions are as meaningless as anyone criticising Saudi Arabia without constructivism or productive solution. I merely gave this example to briefly outline out that particular travel destination led to my final major project during my bachelor’s degree at the end of 2011...And how visiting Kuwait led me to apply for a master's degree and base my final dissertation on its women.

This longwinded start was to set the scene for my visit to Kuwait in August 2014. If you live in the Gulf region or have previously travelled there, you’re probably already thinking what a mistake it was to travel to the region during a heatwave season. It was hot, like sauna room hot, where you first get hit by a blazing hot air before the sweats follow up. Shockingly, I enjoyed it. What I didn’t enjoy was the temperature drop when going indoors. To this day, I think no one in the Gulf region (or any hot country…Hong Kong, I am including you) thought through the temperature contrast of the outdoors and indoors. It really agitates me, it’s both physically and mentally aggravating for me to go from a warm/hot natural temperature to a cool/cold artificial one. I understand the heat may be unpleasant for most and having a cooler indoors area to escape to is a relief, BUT (and here is big but) can we not go from 50 degrees to 20 degrees?! 30 degrees Celsius difference between one and the other. Meet me in the middle please? Besides feeling a little irritated writing this part, I also feel like an entitled brat making this point, but I hope you understand where I am coming from.

Anyhow, I have to admit, I practically went to Kuwait without any preparation. Hell, I didn’t even bother googling anything about the country. I planned an almost two weeks trip to escape the long hours of Ramadan in London, to meet Ascia and Dalal and to explore a new culture. Or what seemed new to me. I spent my first two days shocked, just utterly flabbergasted. I travelled with my brother, and this is where I have learned the important lesson about travel companions. They make up a large aspect of your travel experience. He’s more impulsive in expressing his emotions than I am, which meant that he was very vocal about his opinions and views of the place. However, I won’t be publically discrediting his experiences. I equally didn’t enjoy my stay there but was less vocal about it. There wasn’t a point in complaining about a culture I have had yet to experience. What was fairly new for me was the concept of malls, the lack of people’s presence outside of malls and the general lifestyle. I wasn’t sure whether that was due to Ramadan or whether there simply wasn’t much to do in Kuwait besides eating out and shopping. The country didn’t lack authenticity, it simply removed it or ‘renovated’ anything that was remotely historic. I guess it’s aspiring to be the next Dubai and at that time, I’ve only heard about the myths of Dubai (I later found out, it is as described by many). In fact, the Gulf somehow aspires to be more a fusion of United States and Middle East. The lack of public transportation (and the fact that only social class expats use it), the skyscrapers, the malls and the somewhat artificial lavish city life all seems like to come out of an American sitcom…not Sex and the City or Friends, but more like a fancy version of Superstore or any depressing urban city with malls. Do I make sense?

I guess this is a lifestyle that’s comfortable to many but so different to cities across the Middle East, Europe and even Asia. Kuwait just lacks an outdoors life and tries to make up for it through Arabella Mall and Souk Al Mubarakiya. Both different but more on the outdoors spectrum than the rest of malls. And yes, I have visited every big mall in Kuwait. They all pretty much looked the same to me. I’ve never been too impressed or fond of malls. Besides malls, I visited the Grand Masjid, the Kuwait Towers and public beach. You have to take a taxi everywhere or drive. The food is quite delicious, and I was so happy to eat halal meat that was so tasty. I mean meat in London pretty much tastes like plastic rubber or soggy cardboard and this was before my vegetarian days! Food in Kuwait tastes much better than in London. The people in Kuwait were lovely but then I was an obvious tourist and not an expat or migrant. I will write more about Kuwaiti people I had the pleasure to meet but, in the meantime, I hope I’ve given an honest picture of Kuwait without offence. It’s an interesting place to see but definitely not a place I would visit again. It just wasn’t for me but I have learned a lot, a valuable experience.

Until next time, love and peace!

Ps. how different was my style? I dressed like this 6 years ago...this blog serves to remind everyone of my public evolution haha

(Photography by Zak Nur Sharif and Zinah Nur Sharif)

ZINAH

#thezirkus_athens

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